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1995 Peugeot 306 XTdt

Maintenance | Q&A | Fuel Consumption | Forum

Whilst I had my 306 I received a number of emails from other 306 owners with queries and questions about their cars. Here I reproduce some of them along with my replies so that other people might find answers to their questions.

• Digital Clock
• Cooling System/Radiator
• Starting Problems/Glow Plugs
• Central Locking/Key Fob/Alarm/Immobiliser
• Brake Judder
• Aerial/Water Leaks
• Suspension
• Turbo/Intercooler
• Fuel Consumption/MPG
• Door Mirrors
• Radio
• Heater

Digital Clock Back to Top

Can you help me make my led clock brighter as i cannot see it in the night.........there is no control as shown in my manual but it does say specification models only.Any ideas how to make this better???

It sounds like one or both bulbs behind the LCD display have blown. These bulbs come on when the car's lights are turned on and are essential to be able to read the display at night.

One of these bulbs blew a while back in my 306. I removed the clock, found the bulb (which is in a little holder), bought a replacement bulb from Halfords, fitted it in the holder and replaced everything. Job's a good 'un! Not a big job but a little fiddly. Worth a shot though.

To remove the clock, you first have to prise the trim panel surrounding it by carefully using a small flat-bladed screwdriver. The panel should just pull away without much effort. Once removed, this should reveil two screws, one each side of the clock holding it in place. Unscrew these and you should then be able to remove the clock after disconnecting the little plug at the back. Unscrew the 4 (I think) little screws holding the clock together and remove the casing. You should then see the two black bulb holders. Rotate each anticlockwise about a quarter turn and extract. You should see two little wires sticking out the bottom of the bulb holder. Note the position of these in the holder because you will have to get the wires of the new bulb into the same position. Straighten the wires from the old bulb and then the glass bulb should lift out of the holder. Take the bulb to Halfords and get a replacement - cost should be a couple of quid. Then put everything back together in the reverse order.

Cooling System/Radiator Back to Top

I have a 1998 1.9 turbo diesel 306. More recently i have noticed stains on the driveway when moving the car, and although the colliant level is not reducing dramatically, i belive it to be coming from the radiator as it has a wet looking patch at the bottom. I put radwell in, and the patch appears to have dried up, but now the radiator is crumbling to touch in that particular patch! I am now concerned, and keen to be advised on this problem. I feel it would be best to have the radiator replaced. How much would be a reasobnable quote (incl. labour) from a garage? (i have no idea of the likely costs, and obvioulsy want to be ripped off!!)

Peugeot radiators have a habit of failing after as little as 3 years. I suspect this is your problem. The radweld might be a temporary solution but I think that you will end up having to buy a new radiator.

Fortunately you can get these for under £100 and you can fit them yourself if you are DIY minded. If you ask a Peugeot dealer to fit you a new radiator expect to be quoted over £300/£400! An independent garage will probably be under £200. Like I said, if you have done a few jobs on your car you can replace the radiator yourself. Check out my website to hear how I replaced my radiator with one purchased online at www.stuartdalby.co.uk/306.htm

I am also stuck after replacing my radiator, I cant get the bottom hose pipe back into the O ring. Do you have any further advice or techniques or should I admit defeat and take it to a garage?

Actually I do have a tip. A neighbour who replaced his 306's radiator without much bother said that he attached the bottom hose BEFORE seating the radiator into its correct position. That way you can get much more leaverage onto the hose and radiator.

Oh - and remember to use a bit of washing up liquid around to O-ring to help it slide.

Hi Mate, Just bought a 306 lovely car - but may need to renew the radiator like you have. I see on your diagram that you had an expansion tank overflow hose - i dont have one fitted on my 306 was wondering if i fit one to tope of tank, where does the other end connect to?

That's an easy one. It doesn't connect to anywhere. It just goes through a hole behind the headlight and I discharges under the wing somewhere onto the floor. Also, it's just standard clear perspex tubing. I've never had to check but I can imagine Peugeot dealers quoting £20 or something just for a 50cm length of the stuff.

Starting Problems/Glow Plugs Back to Top

Ive got one more problem though that you might be able to help with. When starting my 306 from cold, it blows out a lot of white smoke and runs rough for a minute or so. Any ideas what this might be (i've checked the glow plugs and they seem to be fine). The dealer I bought it from say all old diesels do it and nothing can be done, but i reckonn they're pulling a fast one. Any ideas???

It sounds like classic glow plug problems but you have got me thinking about 'White' smoke. Normally if its glow plug problems you just get more of a black smoke coming out because this is the unburnt diesel which didn't get combusted in the cylinder with the faulty glowplug.

Does the car run fine after the initial few minutes? If so I really do think it sounds like glow plug problems. How did you check them? I've never found a diesel which throws out smoke if it's running ok. Of course the guy who sold you the car might tell you otherwise! Get the glow plugs changed. You can do it yourself but it's a bit fiddly - so increase the chances that you won't have to do it again by fitting quality glow plugs. I put in some Bosch ones. I think 4 were no more than £50.

I have a similar problem with the glow plugs and likewise have found access to the one on the far left difficult. Do you have any tips/advice on getting to this item, before I remove the fuel pump.

Gee - taking the fuel pump out to replace the glow plugs sounds a bit drastic. I certainly didn't need to do that. The one on the far left is ticky to get at but I'm trying to remember how I did it.

I certainly removed a few hoses and I think I bought a ring spanner with an extra long shaft. I think that was about it though. It was a time-consuming job because I remember only being able to turn the plug a millimeter at a time but eventually it becomes easier and eventually it comes out - and what a feeling - particularily if that's the one that's really black and obviously the duffer.

Had a new battery fitted today and friend fitted a brand new starter motor 4 days ago. The car is still not starting or turning over just clicking the only way we are starting the pug is with the aid of 1 of the jump leads connecting from battery to the starter motor with a long screwdriver. Boyfriend thought the chap hadnt loobed the starter motor before putting it in so we have took it out and wd40'd it. Still no luck

Sounds like it must be a faulty connection somewhere. Maybe the damp weather has got in. I'd recommend you clean the battery terminal connections and also the starter motor connections and also, any earth connections. Starter motors take a lot of current and their connections can often fail where lower-demanding circuits can manage.

I was wondering if you can give me any advise on how to change the glow plugs on my 306 xrtd. I have had a quick look and access is very limited to say the least. I don't currently have a haynes manual on the car so I am working a bit blind. Do i have to remove any items such as the intercooler to make it easier, or is it just a case of having the correct tools? Any advise would be greatly appreciated as the car is getting harder to start now in this cold weather!

Replacing the glow plugs on a 306 dt is not really too difficult but the left most one (when looking from the front) is behind the fuel pump and is tricky. I had to dash out and get a particularily long spanner (from Halfords - not expensive). From memory I believe you do have to remove the intercooler to improve access although this is not tricky. I also remember removing a few hoses just to make life a little easier but you might not have to.

Don't be tempted to leave the left most plug because its more difficult to remove - I found that was the one which was causing my cold-start problems. Also, the general advice is don't buy cheap glow plugs because apparently they don't last very long at all. I think I got Bosch ones and I think they might have only cost about £30 for 4 and so that's not so expensive.

My Haynes manual says:
Removal: Warning that glow plugs will be hot if they have been energised or engine has been running recently.
1. Disconnect battery negative lead. To improve access, on turbo models remove the intercooler, and on non-turbo models with D9B engine remove the air distribution housing. If necessary, also remove the intake duct, and disconnect the breather hose from the engine oil filler tube.
2. Unscrew the nut from the relevant glow plug terminal(s), and recover the washer(s). Note that the main supply cable is connected to Number 1 cylinder glow plug and an interconnecting wire is fitted between the four plugs
3. Where applicable, carefully move any obstructing pipes or wires to one side to enable access to the relevant glow plug(s).
4. Unscrew the glow plug(s) and remove from the cylinder head.

Inspection: Inspect each glow plug for physical damage. Burnt or eroded glow plug tips can be caused by a bad injector spray pattern. Have the injectors checked if this sort of damage is found. [What you will usually find if you have been experiencing starting problems caused by one faulty glow plug is that, one plug will be a lot blacker than the others. Whilst you could just replace this plug, for all the effort you might as well put in 4 new plugs]

Refitting: Apply a smear of copper-based anti-seize compound to the plug threads and tighten the glow plugs to the specified torque [22Nm/16 lbf ft]. Do not overtighten, as this can damage the glow plug element. [I didn't bother with the anti-seize compound or a torque wrench]

Central Locking/Key Fob/Alarm/Immobiliser Back to Top

I've just bought the same motor as you (if a tad older) and i'm havin a bit of trouble with the central locking bouncing. I don't suppose you have any ideas cheers

Bouncing central locking usually means either there's a problem with the wiring to the central locking components or the components themselves. I've not heard of problems with the components and so I'd suspect a wiring problem.

I have never had this problem myself but if I did, I'd first look at the wiring which goes to the front doors via the door jam. Wires here are prone to wearing inside the connector. Do you have any other electrical problems? Do your electric mirrors work? Door speakers sound ok? If you have any problems with these components I'd suspect the door connector wiring. Check this. If it looks ok then perhaps try disconnecting the wiring to each door in turn to figure out which one is causing the problem.

ive had my xtdt for 4 days now, and appart from a few minor faults, the central locking unlocking the car randomly and the intermittent headlights being a few, im happy. any ideas?

Fortunately my car's central locking has behaved itself. From what I remember of hearing about other people's problems it could be:

1) The central locking control module is faulty - costly to replace
2) Problem with the lock actuators - an investigation and maybe a clean will suffice.
3) problems with the wiring. Most commonly at the connector between the front car doors and the car's body. Tricky job but maybe a cheap solution.

Addition: 8th April 2005
Someone emailed me with help on fixing the intermittent headlight problem: "I also can offer advice for intermittent dipped headlights that one person has written to you about. I tracked this down to a corroded connector on the dim-dip resistor which is located behind the relay box in the engine compartment next to the battery. Wiggling the wires and cleaning the connector helped, but in the end I resorted to replacing the resistor and connector with an uncorroded one from a scrap yard."

I have the same probleam with the key fob transponder. The batteries, in my case, are running out within 48 hours. I noticed however the red light on the fob, indicating the transponder activation, remained on one morning after pressing the rubber pad to open the locks. I reckon it's the switch at fault, one of the two tall samll square boxes on the circuit. I'm currently looking for another set of keys around the car breakers with which I can swap circuits. Then I can re-program the locking mechanism and hopefully resolve the transponder issue. Alternatively I might take it to my local electrical repair shoppe and see they can do a bit of rework on the cards, replace the switches. I think it's Valeo that manufactured the transponder circuits. If I get around to visiting them maybe one of their engineers could rework a card for me? Probably easier to go the breakers route.

Sounds like you have a good plan there. It does sound like the circuit board's switch. I've never noticed the red LED stay on after I've pressed the button but it could have done this and I've just not noticed. That's why I think it's important to buy a new key fob case (for £5 new from Peugeot Dealer). I suspect it protects the circuitboard (and switch).

I've a 1993 Peugeot 1.6 LX and the alarm system has gone to pot. Everytime I turn the key in the ignition, it triggers the alarm but the engine will start and car will drive. The alarm stays on for around a minute and then drives normally until the engine is switched off and then it starts all over again. Because it's old now and not worth much - i'm not interested in having it fixed and would prefer to just disable siren/alarm completely (disarming the system under the bonnet doesn't work!!). Is there a way I can disconnect the siren myself (fuse etc??? - really pushing any knowledge i have now!!) so that i can drive the car without the risk of being arrested or evicted from my neighbours! Been to a couple of garages and they all say this is not possible - and it's going to cost me about £150. Do you think this is right?

The alarm's siren module is located under the nearside (passenger side) front wing. In order to stop it going off, all you will have to do is disconnect it. The siren module contains it's own temporary power supply so it may well start going off the minute you unplug it. My tip is wrap an old rag around it (to dull the noise) and leave it for 20 mins or so. Once discharged and disconnected you can then either leave it in place or remove it.

In order to find the siren module, look behind your front, passenger side wheel. You will probably see a black plastic wheel arch liner. The siren is above this. You should be able to get your hands behind this liner and feel the siren module, cable and plug. A bit of a dirty job unfortunately. Removing the wheel and wheel arch liner will improve visibility.

bascially my keyfob stopped working, the batteries are still working fine but it wont unlock the car i think its lost the sync, went to my local pug dealer and they said i would have to pay £25 for a credit card with some code on and also £55 to reprogram the key. Any ideas how I could bring this cost down a bit?

On a 3 door 306, the alarm control module is somewhere in the side trim behind the drivers seat. I think you are able to program a keyfob to the car's receiver yourself. Here's the relevant info from my 306's manual.

To programme the remote control key(s) (on first use):
- The doors must be closed and not locked
- Use the key without remote control and turn it in the ignition to position 2 'A' for accessories
- Touch the receiver (located close to the front courtesy light) with the remote control key, which should be held at an angle of between 5 and 10 degrees to the horizontal.
- If the vehicle does not have a sun roof, bring the key in from the left-hand side of the vehicle.
- If the vehicle has a sun roof, bring the key in from the right hand side of the vehicle.
- Press the large button on the key until the LED is extinguished.
- Turn off the ignition.

If you have two remote control keys:
- Press the large button on the second key and repeat the same procedure within ten seconds of programming the first key.
- Turn off the ignition.

I have never carried out this procedure and so you are on your own here. From reading this description is sounds like the key fob might react differently if it's not being used for the first time. I'm not sure. It also is apparent that you will need two keys in order to programme one of them since you need a key in the ignition when you programme the other.

I recently managed to stall my 98 306 meridien whilst crossig a normally shallow river that has got a bit big for its boots. since then the central locking hasnt worked. It started that the central locking would lock all the doors after about 5 minutes of driving but even
that has stopped now. A friend of mine suggested that I unplug the electric connectors next to the raditor and leave them to dry for a couple of days which I have done with no joy. I have also changed the fuse for the central locking and no change. Would you have any idea what the problem might be?

Unfortunately I have not heard of that kind of problem before. The central locking on 306's can be a bit troublesome at times. Common problems are all doors failing to lock or a single door failing to lock. Such problems are usually caused by broken wires within the flexible connector between the front door and the car body. I guess it's possible that by crossing the swollen river there's a lot more water or dampness on the underside of the car and this could make such problems evident.

I was searching the web for ways to reset my immobiliser coz it didn't allow me to start the car. I came across your site and I think that it is a wicked site. You don't happen to know how to reset a 306 immobiliser. ?

The only time the immobiliser has stopped me starting the car is when I had my car's battery replaced. This set the alarm off - which continued even when the new battery was fitted - I turned on the ignition and nothing. I tried to use the remote and nothing. I then went through the sequence mentioned in the handbook which was:

1) turn ignition off
2) press and hold the little button on the right of the steeringcolumn whilst turning on the ignition

This seemed to stop the alarm and the car started.

I've read all your problems with interest as I have a 1995 XLdt also. The intermittent tachometer, radio segments and sunroof rust problems have all been identical on mine. I popped down to my local dealers (Gates in Brokenhurst) to get a couple of replacement key fob cases on your advice and was told that they were unavailable/or I need a part number. Do you have a number or can you give me details of the dealer you bought yours from as my fob cases are knackered but the electronics are still fine inside.

Sorry to hear that you were unable to get a replacement key fob case from your local Peugeot dealer. They definately do sell them. The part number is A5025 and the part description is Control Box - Don't ask me why. The List Price (as of 11/4/03) was £3.76 + £0.66 VAT = £4.42 total.

just bough an xtdt, and had no manual, so did a bit of research and found your site. do you know what the little black button with curved lines on the right of the steering column is for? It seems to do nothing at the moment!

It's part of the alarm. It's usual function is to disable the ultrasonic interior sensors so you can arm the alarm with say the dog in the car or the windows open. To disable them, remove the keys from
the ignition and then hold the button until the red alarm LED near the centre air vents lights. Then lock the car and arm the remote by using the key fob and that's it.

It's second function is to reset the car's immoboliser say, if you have the car battery disconnected. From memory if you turn the ignition and the starter doesn't fire you remove the keys from the ignition, maybe use the key fob to arm and disarm the alarm, then press this button for a little while and then the immobiliser should be disarmed. Something like that.

Was browsing the net for others who were having the same problems with their 306 and found myself at your site. It seems that you are having two of the same problems as me, namely the alarm and key fob. I want to have a go at looking at the alarm but have no idea where the siren is, any cance you could point me to the right place? Also the key fob issue you're having is scarily similar to mine. I've had one set of batteries in the last 10 sets that has lasted more than a month. I've found many people with the same problem and they have all had to fork out the £75 quid for a new one as it seems to be a connecter degredation issue inside. Looks like i'll be doing the same!

The alarm's siren unit is located under the nearside (passenger's side) front wing behind the wheel arch liner. You normally have to remove the wheel and liner in order to gain access to the siren but
then it's quite easy to unplug the wiring and remove the unit. It's location means it's prone to water ingress which causes the circuitry to burn out. If you're an electronic's whiz you might be able to fix
it but failing that, a new siren module cost about £100 5 years ago. Mine's worked fine ever since.

A faulty siren module means the alarm arms and triggers ok but only causes the headlights to flash but no sound. If that's your problem - you should first check whether the siren has been disabled by the key switch under the bonnet. This is usually at the front right hand side of the engine compartment. This switch only disables the siren - not the whole alarm system. Also it uses a different key to the car's ignition key. Newer siren modules don't have the facility for the siren to be disabled and so they won't have a key under the bonnet. If you don't have an siren key switch or the position of the switch makes no difference, then you will need a new siren module.

Other people have experienced more strange happenings with their alarms. In particular indicator lights staying on or acting unusually. This normally indicates a problem with the alarm's control unit itself which will need replacing. This unit is located under the rear seats of 5-door 306's and in the side panel behind the drivers seat on 3-door 306's.

A final point on alarms to note. I once had a period of infrequent but annoying false alarm triggers which disappeared when I had the battery replaced. Worth checking.

As for key fobs - very common problem. As I mention on my site, I've recently replaced just the key fob case since the original one was worn and may have been allowing moisture in. So far, after about 2 months, I've not had to replace the batteries so maybe that's fixed my problems. A new key fob case costs less than £5 so is worth trying.

I have a problem with My indicators when I indicate either way both side blink at the same time someone told me that it could be to do with the alarm??? so I removed the 30 amp fuse to the alarm , this made the alarm trigger but the indicators did start to work any ideas on fixing this I.E can I remove the factory fitted alarm ????

It does sound like the alarm is causing your indicator problem. Unfortunately, the only way I know of fixing this is to replace the alarm's control unit.

If you want to disable the alarm you might simply be able to remove the fuse - so long as it doesn't protect any other circuits. This may initially cause the siren to go off since it has it's own battery. After about 20 minutes the siren should stop and since I imagine it would get charged from the alarm circuit - once it's dead and the fuse is removed it should stay dead.

Alternatively you could locate the alarm's control unit and unplug the wires leading to it. I think the alarm control unit (not to be confused with the alarm's siren module) is situated under the rear seats.

Addition: 8th April 2005
My car never experienced this problem but someone emailed me describing how they had fixed this problem in their car: "One of the many problems I can advise on is when the indicators stay on after locking the car and both directions flashing (like Hazard lights) when indicating either left or right. I tracked it down to the Alarm control unit and cut the two wires from the Alarm Control Unit which lead to the indicators. This does mean that the indicators don't flash when you lock/unlock the car but this is a far cheaper solution [than replacing the alarm]."

Brake Judder Back to Top

Hi stuart, don't know if you remember me. I told you about a similar problem to your wobbling brakes on my 306 some time back. I had the hub changed which sorted the problem. Anyway, looking throught your website, I notice that your problem didn't come back, and you didn't change the hub, is it still OK? I've just bought a 406 2.1td which had
new discs 30k ago (just over a year). The brakes are wobbling over 70 mph braking and I also get the different braking levels at low speed. The latter is what bugs me most. I was just wondering what's the severity of your different braking level at low speed, also do you get any wobble at high speed braking now. Last one, when were the discs changed last? I'm just wondering whether to change the discs myself and scrub the hub with a wire brush and see how it goes, or take it to the garage first as last and spend a small fortune on hit and miss trouble-shooting, as I did with my 306

I'm trying hard to remember what the Peugeot dealer told me about my brakes. I think I have subconciously blocked it from my memory - it was such a traumatic period of time ;-) I think they wanted to replace the hubs but I'd had enough of them at that point and wasn't going to let them do anything more.

So no new hubs. I think I am on the 3rd set of discs they fit, the last set being fitted in February 2001 (117k miles). I am not convinced that my brakes are perfect, maybe new hubs would fix the
problem. But I think the discs have now 'bedded in'. I feel quite secure braking quickly down from 70mph with little if no vibration. Also, the difference in braking force at slow speeds seems to have
disappeared. I'm happy to leave them alone now (140k miles)

I heard on the newsgroups that sometimes the hub flange is just 'dirty' and if not cleaned properly can cause a new set of disc to warp very quickly. I wonder if that's what happened with me. Peugeot fitted the first 2 sets of discs without cleaning the hubs properly first. I think on the 3rd time of changing the discs they gave the hubs a really good clean and hence the problem disappeared.

My advice, if you've changed brake discs in the past, have a go but remember that important hub flange cleaning. If the brake judder has reduced but not gone entirely, live with it a few months and see if it appears to be getting worse or better. If it's getting better, you've done a good job. If it's getting worse, take it to a good garage (so not a Peugeot dealer). Tell them what you've done and see if they can help. They might end up having to change the hubs for you but I think your problems will be solved then.

Aerial/Water Leaks Back to Top

Hi there, just came accross your site, very useful. I am a bit of a paugeot man myself, im picking up a nice 306td sedan tomorrow! Just wondered if you have ever had this problem On my 3 309s, 3 306s, 2 405s and 2 406s all of them leak water through the aerial hole and through the interior light. Peugeot do not think its a common fault!! Just wondered if you had ever experienced it??

I have heard a lot about this leak via the aerial hole but have never experienced it myself. But apparently its not a big job to fix. Just have to get behind the courtesy light assembly in order to get to the aerial securing bolt - remove the aeriel, use sealant and reassemble everything.

I expect if this leak is not fixed pretty quick it could mess up the alarm by getting into the infra-red receiver mounted next to the coutesty light.

Also, I wonder if this problem is more common with cars which get driven through car washes. I hardly ever use them so maybe that's why I've not experience this problem.

Suspension Back to Top

I have a 1996 xldt and I parked on a steep hill the other day at traffic lights (would have held it on clutch but people in the car were asking about hill starts). Upon putting the handbrake on the car rolled backwards and i got un-nerved by this so i gave her some revvs and let off the handbrake and went back to holding it on the clutch. It was admittedly raining but i had my brakes on all the way down the other side of the hill (its kinda U shaped if that makes sense!) so surely they wouldnt be wet? Its done this before on a hill to the garage when I took it to get the central locking unit sorted (needed a complete rewiring as peugeot have changed it - done under warranty thankfully!) Is this dangerous/any ideas of how its fixed? Finally your info and site is invaluable to many peugeot users!It helped me identify the problems that our other 306 was having starting. Thank you very much for your time and any info you can give me. Sorry for being so stupid when it comes to this but its my first car so I am not all knowledged up yet, though your group messages are helping me lots!

Let me quote from my Haynes manual:

"The rear suspension is of the independent trailing arm type, which consists of two trailing arms, linked by a tubular crossmember."

I don't know whether you were aware of that but a characteristic of this type of suspension is that when the car is stopped facing up a hill and the handbrake is applied, as the footbrake is released the car body rides-up over the rear wheels. This can give the feeling that the car is moving backwards but actually the wheels will not be moving. The trailing arms however will be extending.

It is a weird feeling when first experienced but there's nothing wrong going on here. Eventually the trailing arms come to the end of their extension and the "movement" stops.

I'd check this on a quiet hill making sure there's no-one behind you. Apply the handbrake, slowly release the footbrake and wait for the "movement" to stop. Obviously, if you see lampposts whizzing by, you're obviously moving and so take it to the nearest garage and let
them fix it pronto!

Turbo/Intercooler Back to Top

hi I just bought myself a 306 xtdt!95 M reg. yes! I wanted to know if its got an intercooler fitted as standard? Do lemme know if you know abt this.

All D Turbo 306's have an intercooler.

Fuel Consumption/MPG Back to Top

I have an L-reg XTDT and acheieve similar figures to those shown. The greatest difference is in brand of diesel, supermarket diesel does not give nearly as much MPG as BP, Shell or ESSO even though there is a slight premium for filling up. Which brand
of fuel do you use in general?

I use supermarket diesel pretty much all the time. For the first 4 years it was pretty much always Sainsbury's stuff and since last August it has been Tesco's. I can't say I've noticed a difference but then I don't regularily fill up with premium fuels in order to see a difference. However if you are saying you get similar MPG to me and you do use premium fuels there can't be that much of a difference.

I am moving home shortly and will be commuting approx 1,000 miles per month to work and back. With the Subaru consumption of approx 20 - 25 mpg, I am thinking of a lively Turbo diesel for the job. Other contenders are Rover 220 DI, Golf TDI MK4. Car must be able to handle, have decent equipment, a fair bit of go and most importantly, decent economy. The Rover is the quickest and returns about 50.1 mpg. The golf is the slowest, but retunrs about 56+ mpg. The Pug is the nicest looking for me, and is reported to have the best chassis - I am a keen driver. The journey will consit of A38 - dual carriage way, M1 and A52 - dual carriage way, plus some weekend trips on normal roads for football or carring the bikes to a cycle route etc. Do you happen to know the fuel tank capacity, both in litres and gallons (although I can convert)? I'd like to calculate my approximate monthly fuel bill.

Before I ended up buying my 306 DT I test drove a year or two old Rover 200 Diesel. I'm not exactly sure whether that was a 1.8 or 2.0 litre and whether it had a turbo or not but I was disappointed. I didn't get the kick-in the back feeling when you accelerate. I later found out it's insurance group was higher than the peugeot's too.

I never really looked into the Golf TD. I was always put off by the somber black interiors which frankly looked boring. The newer golfs however look less boring and more classy inside. But you pay a premium for VWs because of the german build quality.

So of the 3 I think the 306 is your best option and like you, I like the look of 306s - Functional yet purposeful and the chassis is apparently very good. I own a 1995 XTdt where XT denotes the top-of-the-range trim level. I am glad I went for this because it has a lot of toys (for a car of its age) and still looks nice and luxurious even today. The DTurbo styles are more sport-orientated but
with fewer toys. All 306s DTs use the same engine.

I don't know if you've seen my 306's fuel economy chart but it shows my 1995 DT with 155,000miles on the clock achieves on average about 50mpg. The majority of those miles are either motorways or A-roads. I don't often nip out on short trips.

And finally, the 306's fuel tank capacity is 60 litres.

I was thinking about buying a 1999 306 estate 1.9 d turbo. Parkers says 42.8 to the gallon. 80% of my driving will be motorway. What do you think for consumption.

I think Parkers is probably about right. I imagine an estate is a little more thirsty than a hatchback. Also, I think they quote motorway driving fuel consumption when travelling at 75mph. I think if cruising at 70mph you'd be around the 45mpg mark.

Door Mirrors Back to Top

I have a 1997 306DT. I`m quite happy with it, but seem to have stupid problems like breaking bonnet hinges (both!) and a silly whistle from my wing mirror! I noticed in one of your replies on the yahoo site that you said it was easy to get rid of noisy wing mirrors, mine play several tunes each day!! The passenger one hits some nice notes on the motorway! Any information will be greatly appreciated

You are lucky! I know of your whistling wing mirror problem and the solution is relatively simple. The whistling mirrors are due to the back cover of the wing mirrors not seating correctly. If you run your fingers across the joins of the mirror assembly you might be able to feel the lips. It is the wind blowing against these lips which cause the whistling. Hopefully once you spot a lip you'll be able to man-handle the plastic until it fits back into place. You might also need a bit of superglue to hold it in place. That usually sufficies but if not, a bit of tape over the lip might help.

Radio Back to Top

Do you have any idea on how to remove the stereo from the dashboard. I was thinking that the facsia clips off but I don't want to force it just in case I break it. I've tried asking my very un-cooperative dealer, who offered do it for me for a modest fee, but he wouldn't
tell me.

I believe you use two flat pieces of metal which slide into some slots on the bottom of the radio. However, I once tried to do this but was still not able to get the radio out. Instead I made a few ugly scratches on the facia. I then gave up, took the car to a radio repair spot and they managed to get the radio out within a few seconds with the correct tools. They then went on to repair my radio for me.

Heater Back to Top

Heater wont work, have checked fuses under dashboard. Don't know where heater motor is or what it looks like. Help

Before you suspect the blower motor I'd recommend you check the switch first - i.e. check that when the blower switch is on, there is a feed going to the motor.

If there is supply to the motor, my haynes manual says the following about removing the blower motor:

1. Working inside the vehicle, unclip the lower facia trim panel from the bottom of the facia, and withdraw the panel.
2. To improve access, remove the glovebox.
3. Unscrew the 3 motor securing screws. On models without air conditioning, note that two of the screws secure a wiring plug bracket, and the third screw secures the lower facia trim panel support bracket. Unclip the wiring plugs from the bracket and remove the bracket.
4. Lower the motor assembly, then pull the rubber wiring grommet away from the motor casing and disconnect the wiring plugs.

Addition: 8th April 2005
I have heard from someone who might have another answer to this query: "I've had problems with the main 12v feeds from the battery snapping just under the front bumper by the radiator. This has led to total failue of the ignition switch fed electrics (including engine ignition) and on another 2 occasions the loss of the heater blower. These wiring loom failures are related to the recall that was done on 306s in 1996 where the wiring loom is too short so the wires snap over time."