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I've just bought the same motor as you (if a tad older) and i'm havin a bit of trouble with the central locking bouncing. I don't suppose you have any ideas cheers
Bouncing central locking usually means either there's a problem with the wiring to the central locking components or the components themselves. I've not heard of problems with the components and so I'd suspect a wiring problem.
I have never had this problem myself but if I did, I'd first look at the wiring which goes to the front doors via the door jam. Wires here are prone to wearing inside the connector. Do you have any other electrical problems? Do your electric mirrors work? Door speakers sound ok? If you have any problems with these components I'd suspect the door connector wiring. Check this. If it looks ok then perhaps try disconnecting the wiring to each door in turn to figure out which one is causing the problem.
ive had my xtdt for 4 days now, and appart from a few minor faults, the central locking unlocking the car randomly and the intermittent headlights being a few, im happy. any ideas?
Fortunately my car's central locking has behaved itself. From what I remember of hearing about other people's problems it could be:
1) The central locking control module is faulty -
costly to replace
2) Problem with the lock actuators - an investigation and
maybe a clean will suffice.
3) problems with the wiring. Most commonly at the
connector between the front car doors and the car's body.
Tricky job but maybe a cheap solution.
Addition: 8th April 2005
Someone emailed me with help on fixing the intermittent
headlight problem: "I also can offer advice for
intermittent dipped headlights that one person has
written to you about. I tracked this down to a corroded
connector on the dim-dip resistor which is located behind
the relay box in the engine compartment next to the
battery. Wiggling the wires and cleaning the connector
helped, but in the end I resorted to replacing the
resistor and connector with an uncorroded one from a
scrap yard."
I have the same probleam with the key fob transponder. The batteries, in my case, are running out within 48 hours. I noticed however the red light on the fob, indicating the transponder activation, remained on one morning after pressing the rubber pad to open the locks. I reckon it's the switch at fault, one of the two tall samll square boxes on the circuit. I'm currently looking for another set of keys around the car breakers with which I can swap circuits. Then I can re-program the locking mechanism and hopefully resolve the transponder issue. Alternatively I might take it to my local electrical repair shoppe and see they can do a bit of rework on the cards, replace the switches. I think it's Valeo that manufactured the transponder circuits. If I get around to visiting them maybe one of their engineers could rework a card for me? Probably easier to go the breakers route.
Sounds like you have a good plan there. It does sound like the circuit board's switch. I've never noticed the red LED stay on after I've pressed the button but it could have done this and I've just not noticed. That's why I think it's important to buy a new key fob case (for £5 new from Peugeot Dealer). I suspect it protects the circuitboard (and switch).
I've a 1993 Peugeot 1.6 LX and the alarm system has gone to pot. Everytime I turn the key in the ignition, it triggers the alarm but the engine will start and car will drive. The alarm stays on for around a minute and then drives normally until the engine is switched off and then it starts all over again. Because it's old now and not worth much - i'm not interested in having it fixed and would prefer to just disable siren/alarm completely (disarming the system under the bonnet doesn't work!!). Is there a way I can disconnect the siren myself (fuse etc??? - really pushing any knowledge i have now!!) so that i can drive the car without the risk of being arrested or evicted from my neighbours! Been to a couple of garages and they all say this is not possible - and it's going to cost me about £150. Do you think this is right?
The alarm's siren module is located under the nearside (passenger side) front wing. In order to stop it going off, all you will have to do is disconnect it. The siren module contains it's own temporary power supply so it may well start going off the minute you unplug it. My tip is wrap an old rag around it (to dull the noise) and leave it for 20 mins or so. Once discharged and disconnected you can then either leave it in place or remove it.
In order to find the siren module, look behind your front, passenger side wheel. You will probably see a black plastic wheel arch liner. The siren is above this. You should be able to get your hands behind this liner and feel the siren module, cable and plug. A bit of a dirty job unfortunately. Removing the wheel and wheel arch liner will improve visibility.
bascially my keyfob stopped working, the batteries are still working fine but it wont unlock the car i think its lost the sync, went to my local pug dealer and they said i would have to pay £25 for a credit card with some code on and also £55 to reprogram the key. Any ideas how I could bring this cost down a bit?
On a 3 door 306, the alarm control module is somewhere in the side trim behind the drivers seat. I think you are able to program a keyfob to the car's receiver yourself. Here's the relevant info from my 306's manual.
To programme the remote control key(s) (on first use):
- The doors must be closed and not locked
- Use the key without remote control and turn it in the
ignition to position 2 'A' for accessories
- Touch the receiver (located close to the front courtesy
light) with the remote control key, which should be held
at an angle of between 5 and 10 degrees to the
horizontal.
- If the vehicle does not have a sun roof, bring the key
in from the left-hand side of the vehicle.
- If the vehicle has a sun roof, bring the key in from
the right hand side of the vehicle.
- Press the large button on the key until the LED is
extinguished.
- Turn off the ignition.
If you have two remote control keys:
- Press the large button on the second key and repeat the
same procedure within ten seconds of programming the
first key.
- Turn off the ignition.
I have never carried out this procedure and so you are on your own here. From reading this description is sounds like the key fob might react differently if it's not being used for the first time. I'm not sure. It also is apparent that you will need two keys in order to programme one of them since you need a key in the ignition when you programme the other.
I recently managed to stall my 98 306 meridien
whilst crossig a normally shallow river that has got a
bit big for its boots. since then the central locking
hasnt worked. It started that the central locking would
lock all the doors after about 5 minutes of driving but
even
that has stopped now. A friend of mine suggested that I
unplug the electric connectors next to the raditor and
leave them to dry for a couple of days which I have done
with no joy. I have also changed the fuse for the central
locking and no change. Would you have any idea what the
problem might be?
Unfortunately I have not heard of that kind of problem before. The central locking on 306's can be a bit troublesome at times. Common problems are all doors failing to lock or a single door failing to lock. Such problems are usually caused by broken wires within the flexible connector between the front door and the car body. I guess it's possible that by crossing the swollen river there's a lot more water or dampness on the underside of the car and this could make such problems evident.
I was searching the web for ways to reset my immobiliser coz it didn't allow me to start the car. I came across your site and I think that it is a wicked site. You don't happen to know how to reset a 306 immobiliser. ?
The only time the immobiliser has stopped me starting the car is when I had my car's battery replaced. This set the alarm off - which continued even when the new battery was fitted - I turned on the ignition and nothing. I tried to use the remote and nothing. I then went through the sequence mentioned in the handbook which was:
1) turn ignition off
2) press and hold the little button on the right of the
steeringcolumn whilst turning on the ignition
This seemed to stop the alarm and the car started.
I've read all your problems with interest as I have a 1995 XLdt also. The intermittent tachometer, radio segments and sunroof rust problems have all been identical on mine. I popped down to my local dealers (Gates in Brokenhurst) to get a couple of replacement key fob cases on your advice and was told that they were unavailable/or I need a part number. Do you have a number or can you give me details of the dealer you bought yours from as my fob cases are knackered but the electronics are still fine inside.
Sorry to hear that you were unable to get a replacement key fob case from your local Peugeot dealer. They definately do sell them. The part number is A5025 and the part description is Control Box - Don't ask me why. The List Price (as of 11/4/03) was £3.76 + £0.66 VAT = £4.42 total.
just bough an xtdt, and had no manual, so did a bit of research and found your site. do you know what the little black button with curved lines on the right of the steering column is for? It seems to do nothing at the moment!
It's part of the alarm. It's usual function is to
disable the ultrasonic interior sensors so you can arm
the alarm with say the dog in the car or the windows
open. To disable them, remove the keys from
the ignition and then hold the button until the red alarm
LED near the centre air vents lights. Then lock the car
and arm the remote by using the key fob and that's it.
It's second function is to reset the car's immoboliser say, if you have the car battery disconnected. From memory if you turn the ignition and the starter doesn't fire you remove the keys from the ignition, maybe use the key fob to arm and disarm the alarm, then press this button for a little while and then the immobiliser should be disarmed. Something like that.
Was browsing the net for others who were having the same problems with their 306 and found myself at your site. It seems that you are having two of the same problems as me, namely the alarm and key fob. I want to have a go at looking at the alarm but have no idea where the siren is, any cance you could point me to the right place? Also the key fob issue you're having is scarily similar to mine. I've had one set of batteries in the last 10 sets that has lasted more than a month. I've found many people with the same problem and they have all had to fork out the £75 quid for a new one as it seems to be a connecter degredation issue inside. Looks like i'll be doing the same!
The alarm's siren unit is located under the nearside
(passenger's side) front wing behind the wheel arch
liner. You normally have to remove the wheel and liner in
order to gain access to the siren but
then it's quite easy to unplug the wiring and remove the
unit. It's location means it's prone to water ingress
which causes the circuitry to burn out. If you're an
electronic's whiz you might be able to fix
it but failing that, a new siren module cost about £100
5 years ago. Mine's worked fine ever since.
A faulty siren module means the alarm arms and triggers ok but only causes the headlights to flash but no sound. If that's your problem - you should first check whether the siren has been disabled by the key switch under the bonnet. This is usually at the front right hand side of the engine compartment. This switch only disables the siren - not the whole alarm system. Also it uses a different key to the car's ignition key. Newer siren modules don't have the facility for the siren to be disabled and so they won't have a key under the bonnet. If you don't have an siren key switch or the position of the switch makes no difference, then you will need a new siren module.
Other people have experienced more strange happenings with their alarms. In particular indicator lights staying on or acting unusually. This normally indicates a problem with the alarm's control unit itself which will need replacing. This unit is located under the rear seats of 5-door 306's and in the side panel behind the drivers seat on 3-door 306's.
A final point on alarms to note. I once had a period of infrequent but annoying false alarm triggers which disappeared when I had the battery replaced. Worth checking.
As for key fobs - very common problem. As I mention on my site, I've recently replaced just the key fob case since the original one was worn and may have been allowing moisture in. So far, after about 2 months, I've not had to replace the batteries so maybe that's fixed my problems. A new key fob case costs less than £5 so is worth trying.
I have a problem with My indicators when I indicate either way both side blink at the same time someone told me that it could be to do with the alarm??? so I removed the 30 amp fuse to the alarm , this made the alarm trigger but the indicators did start to work any ideas on fixing this I.E can I remove the factory fitted alarm ????
It does sound like the alarm is causing your indicator problem. Unfortunately, the only way I know of fixing this is to replace the alarm's control unit.
If you want to disable the alarm you might simply be able to remove the fuse - so long as it doesn't protect any other circuits. This may initially cause the siren to go off since it has it's own battery. After about 20 minutes the siren should stop and since I imagine it would get charged from the alarm circuit - once it's dead and the fuse is removed it should stay dead.
Alternatively you could locate the alarm's control unit and unplug the wires leading to it. I think the alarm control unit (not to be confused with the alarm's siren module) is situated under the rear seats.
Addition: 8th April 2005
My car never experienced this problem but someone emailed
me describing how they had fixed this problem in their
car: "One of the many problems I can advise on is
when the indicators stay on after locking the car and
both directions flashing (like Hazard lights) when
indicating either left or right. I tracked it down to the
Alarm control unit and cut the two wires from the Alarm
Control Unit which lead to the indicators. This does mean
that the indicators don't flash when you lock/unlock the
car but this is a far cheaper solution [than replacing
the alarm]."
